Pad Cleaning
Polishing compounds work on a cycle. The abrasives cut first, then break down and refine, and that only happens if the pad face is clear enough for them to work against the paint. A pad clogged with spent compound and clear coat breaks the cycle, so you get less cut, a worse finish, or both, and you end up doing extra passes to fix it. Spurring the pad with a brush between panels and washing it properly at the end of the day with a pad cleaner or a light all purpose cleaner dilution isn't housekeeping, it's what makes the polishing work. The same products look after your microfibre.
GuideHow to Care for Your Machine Polishing PadsRead the guide ›
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FAQ's: Pad Cleaning
How often, on the fly or in the sink, and whether a pad washer is worth the bench space. These are the questions we get asked the most.
Still unsure? Ask us ›How often should I clean polishing pads?
Leave it and the residue seeps deeper into the pad, so it clogs faster and runs hotter with every set. That heat ends up at the back of the pad where the foam is glued to the velcro, the glue softens, and the velcro delaminates. Most pads that "just fell apart" went that way. At the end of the job, wash them. Compound left to dry in a foam pad hardens, the foam goes stiff and it never cuts evenly again. Wool and microfibre pads are worse, dried compound in the fibres is next to impossible to shift.
What do I clean polishing pads with?
Two things to avoid. Dishwashing liquid, which leaves a residue that hurts how the next compound breaks down. And the washing machine for foam pads, the spin cycle tears the velcro and the foam.
Is a pad washer worth buying?
For a weekend polisher doing one car a month, a bucket of warm water and a pad cleaner does the same job with more effort and no outlay. Get the brush before the washer. A pad brush for the between-panel clean is the one everyone should own.









